Mel & AC

The afternoon of our second day on Tobacco Caye I ventured into the waters alone...snorkle secured I kicked along and the salt helped keep me afloat. Watching tyhe fish eat off the coral or swim by in schools made me feel like I'd entered a different planet. Everything was silent except the breath going in and out of my tube...I was under the sea!

Of course I was fighting my imagination a bit since it was drawing sharks in the darker segments of the water. After I made my way around half of the island I glanced to my left and saw a large spotted eagle rey looking at me as his body rippled in the water. Now most people would be thrilled by such a sighting, butg I've never swam faster in my life...get me out of here!

Out of breath I stumbled right into Mel and AC's yard. They were laaaaughing at me and that's how our friendship began. Dane had to head back to the mainland and then reality/work so I moved in with Mel and AC. They have a small cabin with no electricity...it it were anywhere else their shabby home would seem like a poor existence, but here on the island they make it feel like paradise.

Mel taught me the ways of island life. The first morning we went out with Captain Fermin to pull his fish cages up...he catches red snapper, black snapper, and a few others that he uses in his hotel and restaurant. It was beautfiul being out on the water during surise watching Fermin pull in the fish and Mel scoop. I helped where I could and entertainedmyself by watching little crabs scurry about. Later that day Mel taught me how to fry the fish...put love into your cookin' girl she'd say and then she would let out a deep chuckle. We made maggot soup and rice...delicious!

There are 20 people who live on the island and between 10 and 30 visitors. The locals fill their time with fishing, boating, snorkeling, diving, taking visitors on tours, running the hotels, or raking...the island is like one enormous Zen garden. Between tasks the hammocks are filled.

Since Tobacco Caye sits in the middle of the Caribbean Sea there is always a gentle breeze blowing through...inland life seems so stagnant after growing accustomed to the caressing air. Gigantic, smooth, pink conch shells line the pathways and decorate the bases of the palm trees. The coconuts are the only threat on the island. They clump together beneath the huge palm leaves until the tree throws them to the ground...thump, watch out! Coconut is part of the daily menu...the coconut rice being a new favorite of mine...oh so sweet.

Mel and AC took me fishing (I swam while they proceeded to catch over 20 fish...I'd starve as an islander) and introduced me to all of the locals. It began feeling like home. In the afternoons we would sit outside of the house in the sand or hammocks and everyone would be laughing and talking in Creole - some of which I could pick up - but then they'd mix in Garifuna and Spanish...at that point all I could understand was the laughter, which was genuine and rich.