Dancing and the Smokin´ Saint

San Simon is praised throughout the Guatemalan highlands on October 28th; according to Lonely Planet (my trusty guide), he´s thought to be a combination of Mayan gods, Pedro de Alvarada (a fierce conquistador) and the biblical Judas. Offerings to San Simon are typically cigarettes, rum or candles, and it is here in San Andres Itzapa that the "unparalleled festival" is held.

On the evening of the 28th the cobblestone road leading up to San Simon´s place of residence was lined with carts selling dulces, trinkets, and grills covered with corn, pots of rice and beans, and of course meat. The women working behind each smoky fire hollered out for us to eat there where the tortillas were thick the meat was juicy. We decided on a rice and bean platter...with blue tortillas...the best I´ve had yet. As we continued up the hill vendors were selling candles, flowers, and branches of evergreen trees to be offered to San Simon. Finally we reached the saint himself.

Outside of the church/shrine the courtyard was filled with large groups of men surrounding a small dance floor where dancing pairs bobbed to the live music. At the doors of the church Pablo, Evan, and I got in line to pay our respects to the smoking, drinking saint, which as it turns out is a serious matter. Plaques of thanks and praise filled the walls and in the center of the room tables overflowed with new candles, remnan ts of candles and a lot of flame, which made for a hazy, spiritual atmosphere.

In between all of the tables paying worshippers were given a blessing by probably the drunkest man in the room. He would pour alcohol from a Quetzaltekal bottle (typical San Simon offering) onto a bouquet of leaves. He then put it on the person´s head and proceeded to brush it across their arms, chest, torso, legs and back. "Whoa," I thought, "nothing like being covered in cheap, potent alcohol." Well, I didn´t even know what was coming. After the leaf blessing he (drunk man) took some of the alcohol in his mouth, thoughtfully covered the worshipper´s eyes and sprayed the alcohol through his intoxicated lips all over their face, hair, chest and back...wow.

The line on the side of the church moved forward as the alcohol bath rituals continued. I pulled 1 Quetzal out of my bra (best way to store the bucks) and began thinking about what I would say to this saint as he sat stocially listening to the hopes and prayers of men, women, and children from all over Guatemala and the world.

Evan paid his respects first, then it was my turn. Up close San Simon reaked of alcohol; money, flowers, and cigars covered his throne, and his lushes lashes were visible through the plastic sheath covering his face. After placed the quetzal into his breast coat pocket I gave thanks for human traditions and human experience. What a gift to be able to stand in this room and witness this sacred, stunning event.

Once we paid our respects we met up with Allie and Colin and the 5 of us headed to the dance floor (I couldn´t resist a good shake in this atmosphere). My first step into the crowd I felt like a candle in the wind; trying to blend in I bent my knees so I wouldn´t be quite so many heads above the crowd. The bent knee trick lasted about 30 seconds and then I decided to embrace the 12-24 inch gap between myself and the locals.

I danced with Pablo and Evan and then branched off on my own...I´ve always preferred dancing without being linked up, but my wishes weren´t granted for long before un borracho asked me to dance. All jokes aside this guy was a little taller than my belly button...I couldn´t figure out how we could actually dance together, but his drunken steps led the way, and I admit, I was smiling. I switched partners once a new song began and although I still had some height on my new dancing partner he had a perfectly stocky build that gave me something to hold on to as we twirled across the floor...delightful.

After dancing our gringo parade headed back down the hill towards Maya Pedal and we called it a night. Gracias San Simon.