katie goes....

Sunday, November 19, 2006

Garifuna Settlement Day

On November 19, 1832 the Garifuna people, originally brought from Africa as slaves, left Honduras after the civil war and settled in Dangriga. Mels family (sorry I cannot find the apostrophies) lives in Dangriga, where they celebrate annually with an all night festival. annual, all night festival on the 18th to celebrate.

I had been looking forward to the event before my trip and having the opportunity to celebrate with Mels family made things even more exciting. Around 5pm on the 18th Mel, her sister Rosie, brother Felix, Lucia her mother, and I headed down the main street where everyone in town was busy buying outfits, make up, hair grease, and other beautifying products. At home Mel and Rosie spent 3 hours applying the goop and glamour to themselves and everyone else.

I enjoyed watching the hustle and bustle until Mel was ready to dress me up like a Belizian. Amused by my lack of fashion sense and grooming Mel asked, "Girl, dont you have any tight clothes?" Oh no.....tight clothes...after resisting a bit I decided to embrace being Belizian and I was in a short jean skirt, flashy black tank with matching sandals, and she brushed my hair (much needed).

Around 10pm the entire family headed out to the street. Luis and Lucia, Mels parents, held hands as we walked past drummers, food stands, and dancers. The whole town was dressed up as they mozied down the sidewalks taking it all in.

Eventually we broke into smaller groups, and I went to the dance club with Fermin (Captain Fermin from Tobacco Caye). The room bumped with reggatone and everyone was dancing the punta. The first time I saw a girl dancing the punta I was amazed by her hip moving abilities, butwatching the couples on the dance floor only brought rabbits to mind...thrusting madness! I took a shot and then gave it a shot, but before long we headed back to the innocence of the street.

As the hours passed it was mostly 20 to 30 year olds lining the sidewalks. Everyone stood facing the opposite side of the street as if anticipating a parade....there was no parade coming people were simply hanging out.

Around 3am I felt like I had been captured by zombies and taken to a dark place where the beat of the drum controls the universe, but when the sun began to rise my energy was rejuvinated...I love early mornings. The drummers and the crowd were renewed as well and I joyfully joined the street dancing as we welcomed in the day. Eventually we headed to the beach where everyone sat in the sand to watch the reenactment of the Garifuna settlement. Three boats came in from the sea loaded with palm branches, flags and people singing.

Tradition, tradition!

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